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What lens with the Fujifilm X-E1?


#1

Hi,

I am thinking of getting a Fujifilm X-E1. But, I am unsure of what lens to buy for it. My budget for a lens would be around £200-300 (used lenses are preferred).

Any advice is appreciated.

Cheers.


#2

Let us know what you want to use the camera for… What do you want to take photos of. A landscape lens will be different that a sports lens will be different than a portrait lens, etc.


#3

Logan’s on point here - use case is very important when buying lenses. I’m not going to buy a zoom lens when I need something wide for astrophotography, for instance.


#4

I’d be using the camera for general street/building/landscape type shots. I’m unsure of what lens would be best, and if to get a prime/zoom lens.

Cheers.


#5

One last question… Do you care about auto focus or can you go old school and get all manual?


#6

Well, I’ve never actually manually controlled a camera, so it would be a learning experience at the least. I think 2 options, 1 being with AF and one without would be the best, if possible.

Thanks


#7

If you’re doing buildings and landscapes, wider is always better - in my opinion. If you’re looking to do random portraits, you’ll want a zoom to be a little more discrete.

Maybe I’m a nerd but I only shoot manual. I can’t blame the camera when my photo doesn’t turn out - heh.


#8

Yea, I get that. But I was wondering, what is a wider lens, would something like 35mm lens be ‘wider’ than a 60mm lens?


#9

Yes, the ‘wider’ lenses have the shorter focal lengths. The Fuji X-Mount is relatively new, so it may be harder to find cheaper used lenses for it. You could use adapters and legacy glass, but that will (probably) be fully manual, aperture and focus. And then crop factor plays an effect, as very short focal length lenses for wide angle on a cropped sensor camera are not easily found. However, that camera only has a 1.5x crop factor, so that’s really not too bad. Crop factor means that a 50mm focal length lens on your Fuji will appear to be a 75mm if it were on a 35mm film or full-frame camera.

This Rokinon seems like it would work well for you. Generally prime lenses have better quality, but zooms still have their place. It seems like lenses are kind of hard to come by for the X-mount system, you may want to look at the Panasonic GX7; being that it’s micro 4/3, there’s a lot more lenses out for it. But it does have a 2x crop factor versus the 1.5x of the Fuji.


#10

Thanks, I’ve been looking at the Fuji X-E1 for around a year now. Do you have any recommendations for relatively cheap full-frame cameras? If such things exist.

The Rokinon seems to be pretty good but pricey, does Nikon not produce any lenses for the X-mount?


#11

Cheapest full-frame camera is a 35mm film SLR. IMO, it’s still the best way to learn photography as you’re forced to learn how to use the camera and not depend on automagic modes. For a digital full-frame, there aren’t really any sub $1000 that I’m aware of. Personally, I have no desire for a full-frame DSLR; they’re too big, heavy and expensive. The Sony A7 or whatever is really the only digital full-frame that I’d be interested in because it’s so small.

X-Mount is a proprietary Fuji mount, so no, Nikon doesn’t make any directly for the X-Mount. And with propriety mount systems, expect lenses to be pricey. You can use adapters to make nearly any lens work with it however, so there’s always that option.


#12

Yea, I think I’d probably get an adaptor, as long as there are not major disadvantages to them. Do you have any idea of a well built 24mm (or so) lens? Or are they all plastic-ish at my price range? Even second-hand?


#13

As well as lenses knowing what ‘f stop’ the lens is rated at for your given needs is a must (dependent on your photography)


#14

The Fuji 18-55 is probably the best general purpose, cost-effective X-mount lens. It’s not a super fast lens, but you don’t need that for landscapes and buildings anyways. Optics are great.

For primes, if you were only going to get one, I’d say get the 23mm f2.

Personally, I have the 35mm f2, but I normally use my X100T for almost everything, and that has a fixed 23mm f2 lens.

There’s really no need to get a manual focus only lens, as you can manually focus any of the lenses listed above. Just set the focus switch to M on your camera. They are generally cheaper though, so that’s a factor I guess, but as a learning tool it would be better just to get a 35mm film camera. You can get old Pentax’s around $100, and the lenses are dirt cheap. I only paid about $50 for my 50mm f1.4.